Curious Worlds of Perfumed Endeavour - Discoveries of Esxence - Part the Second - June 2022

Here is the second part of heat- delayed resume from Esxence which was held in Milan in June. A labyrinthine experience where to uphold certain creations above others is an impossibility, my respect and admiration for all I encountered goes unchanged. Again it falls to me to give a synopsis of those perfumes that turned my head, that caught my senses, that captured my emotions and that turned me inside out. For that is what a perfume of great proportions can achieve even within the quickfire, glimpsed moments of a perfume salon. They will stand out and above the crowd, lingering long after all is finished and the voyage home accomplished. Each of these perfumes have gotten under my skin, like a good itch it is always a pleasure to respond to. There is no particular order of merit here, all found their way under a particular chink in my armour.

Victoria from Frassai 2.Cacao in the Sun from Maison Tahite and Cest n’est pas un Patchouly from Lucien Ferrero 3. Lux Visionaria from Filippo Sorchinelli and Bianca De La Garza 4. Montri from Parfums Dusita Paris 5. Solaro Collection from Uermi, especially Il Sole Dentro and Dillo Alla Luna 5. Riad Jasmine and Where we used to Live from Azman Perfumes.

Here a first little gathering…..

Victoria from Frassai, perfumer Irina Burlakova, a marvellous creation inspired by the life of Argentinian writer and publisher Victoria Ocampo. A modern, feminine woman ahead of her times, Victoria encapsulates a vibrant and pulsing femininity, unfettered and graced with a strength that has endured. Opulent grace defined with verve and tenacity. A perfume for all women who have dared and flown in the face of convention and expectations. A personal ode to my suffragette, businesswoman grandmother.

Cacao in the Sun from Maison Tahite, Kaon distribution, perfumer Lucien Ferrero, is the latest release from this exceptional house who have focused in on a specific component, first with Vanille and now with Cacao. A complete offering of various facets that interests and excites me each time. Here “In the Sun’, we are gifted sumptuous luminousity upon a vacant shoreline, skin mottled with salty droplets. It is silken like the down on sun-warmed flesh and exudes a liberty only found in those moments when reality is eclipsed by an escapism.

C’est n’est pas un Patchouly from Lucien Ferrero, perfumer Lucien Ferrero. Well, well a Patchouli indeed, masterfully played and teased out from its darker realms, cajoled into revealing hitherto unknown personality traits, like someone who has hidden away for years, nuturing an immense genius afraid to share with the world. Maitre Ferrero has with great dexterity lured Patchouli into an elegant arena, bright and sparkling exuding a unisex masculinity that wears well on all.

Lux Visionaria from Filippo Sorchinelli and Bianca De La Garza, a profoundly different offering springs from this collaborative adventure between my dear friend Filippo and Ms De La Garza. It along with Lux Visionaria both captivates and confuses me. The influence of femininity is woven alongside it sacred components. As ever the incense welcomes and beckons entry to the sanctuary, once installed there is to my nose a profoundly emergent aspect, soft and of womanly hue that exudes a grace and power, Magdalenian in nature that intrigues me and this vision requires my further attention.

Montri from Parfums Dusita Paris , Perfumer Pissara Umajivani. A life encapsulated in a bottle, here Pissara writes the story of her beloved father’s life, his poetry inspires her every creation. In Montri we discover all aspects of the man, suave and elegant, passionate about his words and his family, touching and inspiring others to their greater extents. Spice laden, with wafts of floral delicacy, Montri’s shining moments is revealed in its unique Oud accord, surprisingly light and of airy proportions, an Oud Palao that speaks to us of refinement and of gestures timeless. A true measure of a Gentleman in all senses.

Solaro Collection from Uermi, Perfumer Pierre Gueros. A collection of 4 from this Italian house, two caught my attention, Il Sole Dentro, a sunfilled invitation, warming concoction that demands us to drop our daily rituals and embrace a spontaneity, that which we find when liberated on shores unknown and with faces just met. Its prime component of Geranium has been embraced with a cocoon of spices and soft breezes, barefoot running along a deserted beach, the only mesmerising sensation awaiting you in the blue expanse of a turquoise sea. The other is Dillo Alla Luna, intense, no mistaken identity here, its deep and earthy with a luminessence that begs the inflouressence of night waves, lit upon the shore. Velveteen night, an infinity of silence save for a rhythmic caress. Elegant and wildly abandoned in the same caught breath, it extends the invitation to bathe in moonlight and sea.

Riad Jasmine and Where we used to Live from Azman Perfumes-Husen Baba, Perfumers Chris maurice and Euan McCall. Riad Jasmine, How this one took me completely off guard, Jasmine has always been difficult for me, yet here such dexterity has woven this particular spell as to have bewitched me entirely. It truly is a perfection of tranquility that cannot be intruded upon from the outside, sitting close to skin and allowing a voyage to unfold. Much more than the destination, Riad Jasmine is the wafting of every single gift in a sanctuary place given a scent. All that peace, calm and inhalation of beauty in each respiration, it is a welcomed intoxication. Where we used to Live is an oversized time worn key that seems to fit only into our deeply personal doors, unlocking them and flinging open the casements, a wind of whispers traversing the confines of memories. It touches with an expert hand the comforts and familiarity of times past and places etched upon us like fine lines, a map of how we became. It reignites the ability of wonder filled sight, when all was seen and felt in panoramic intensity. I am held within safer hands, feet dancing on pavements chalked in hopscotch squares and riding high, too high on a swing amongst the lilacs. A perfect reminisence.

Muscat from Ormonde Jayne 2. Riviera Sunrise from Atelier Des Ors 3. Paradiso Super and Here comes the Sun from Malbrum 4. Magnetic Wood from The Harmonist 5. Fig Infusion from Essential Parfums 6. Several - Les Larmes d’Aden, Tundzha, Makeda and Tjarn from Parfumeurs du Monde.

Muscat from Ormonde Jayne, London, is an opulent, sumputous perfume, equally at home in a soiree of grand proportions and a walk in solitude. It is a new expression of oud and those components that one associates with that region of the world yet given new breath. Infused with highest refinement and grace, it envelops in a swath of finest kashmir and rendersme well travelled, poised and elegant in the most understated luxury. As always pure distinction from Linda Pilkington.

Riviera Sunrise from Atelier Des Ors, Perfumer Marie Salamagne, the blue collection from this wonderful and luxurious house shimmers with all the facets of the Riviera, not only as a location but as the experience ‘par excellence’. All of them are amongst my favoured perfumes for summer and I have a special affinity for this region and its spectacular nuances. In Riviera Sunrise greeted by a heraldic glow, those liminal moments of the night turning to day and day turning to night present us with an depth of sensation, somehow the light is clearer, the colours more pronounced and the scents rising from lush gardens graced with a million droplets of the night, render a depth unparalelled. The perfumed airs laden with citrus verdancy and intoxicating blooms shrouded in those moments of days stirring in solar warmth.

Paradiso Super and Here Comes the Sun two upcoming releases from Malbrum, Perfumer Cristiano Canali. I have written before of the perfumes from Malbrum and been suitably impressed, here no difference as I was able to experience three upcoming releases. Two of the three drew me in for further exploration. I shall leave further words until their release but suffice to say Paradiso Super in its form presented to me is a bright, herbal underlay, giving me the sensation to lay on the grasses of late summer and inhale a perfection of laziness in the most positive sense, it feels like a hammock sway in a gentle breeze, shaded from the heat and watching the rare cloud scudd across an azure praire above. Here comes the Sun is an urging plaything, it entices me to dance and run and jump with a joyfulness akin to childhood. Come, come and play, it entreats, there are trees to climb and forests to explore. We are adventurers, you and I in the game we play and the vastness of the unknown streches out before us if you dare. The days are endless and we live forever, the hands of time are stalled, come , come…..

Magnetic Wood from The Harmonist, a brand just encountered and I have to say, quite a few that like me and I liked them. Here was a movement sideways and slightly to the left, emotions ran riot as I was once agin in the middle of the old town of Nice, flower festival time, tiny streets riotous with flowers and especially mimosa, streets endowed with the golden scent, all arms laden, all faces graced with smiles, the sun returns with their golden hues and distinctive scent that caresses every building, every street corner, every vendor at the market and reachs outwards towards the seas bluer garment. A beautiful collection and an emotional encounter.

Fig Infusion from Essential Parfums, Perfumer Nathalie Lorson. Fig in all her expressions was a truly dominant aspect at Esxence this year, but each was a unique creation encapsulating this tree and her fruit. Nathalie Lorson has here taken the fruit and installed us under the fig tree on a heated late summer’s afternoon. Here with each passing whisper of wind, her sweet, milky delights are wafted towards us. this is tranquil and peaceful, remininscent of the pure delight of a warmed fig in your hand and the delicousness of it aroma and taste under sheltering branches.

Parfumeurs Du Monde really blew me away, not only with their beautiful and comprehensive collection curated by some of the most talented perfumers, but also with the quality of components and ethical approach and with their warmth, friendliness and downright fun. Hard to narrow down which ones to write a few words about, but the 4 in my photograph are a start. I will speak on two of them…..Les Larmes d”Aden, Perfumer Thierry Bernard, is simply magnificent, an ancient incantation that spirals from skin like Djinn conjured from an eternal sleep, a formula resurrected as closely as possible to the Temple of Jerusalem Ketoret Incense. It weaves a spell so clear and true as if we have known its scent for aeons and in our forgetting, now we come full circle and stand in a mystery that always existed. It is truly unique and astounding, opulent and full of whispers. It is a homecoming to a state we have been far removed from for far too long.

Tjarn by Perfumer Ellen Dahlgren, is a vibrant voyage beyond the darkest views of the forest, walk awhile and inhale. Resins and deep hues of forested floor rise to meet you, sentinels that have watched a thousand years pass by. Follow an instinct that calls you onwards despite a fear of unknown paths. Farther and farther away from the familiar, yields vistas of tumbling water and ozonic airs interlaced with filigree fingerlings of darkest green. Here is a forested, hallowed place where all is stilled in an instant and one can breathe truer airs in an exhalation of relief…

Makeda by Perfumer Alexandre Isaie Helwani

Tundzha by Jean-Claude and Eric Gigodot

**The range of extractions from Behave, Le Sourceur**

I cannot fail to mention a particular highlight for me at the booth of Parfumeurs du Monde, a rare and exquisite insight to the raw materials utilised in their collection. Provided by Behave, Le Sourceur and its founder Stephane Piquart, again with a strong ethical and moral practice behind. These extractions are nothing short of astounding, so intensely beautiful as to elicit emotions of great strength. Thank you for such beautiful work, transportative in all senses.

Lido from Venezia 1920 2. Sacred Scarab from Zoologist 3. Figuier Noire from Houbigant 3. Neroli Mediterraneo from Perris Monte Carlo 4. Rose Ardoise from Atelier Materi 5. Piazza Affari from Milano Fragranze 5. Sleight of Fern from Masque Milano 6. Eau Guillerette from Anatole Lebreton.

Lido from Venezia 1920 Perfumer Luca Gritti, here was a highlight that came out of the blue, thanks to a dear friend and Perfumer Roberto Dario. Myself and a few others were asked to meet with Gianluca Zin, the founder and creative force behind Venezia 1920. This was a fascinating meeting and a generous insight into the collection. We were taken through all the perfumes with great detail. Venice is one of my favoured cities and I often travel her streets even in my daydreams, the urge to return strongly lit in my veins. From the collection my initial selections have been threefold, Lido, Blanc de Blanc and Oud Royale, all just exquisite representations of that divine city with a thousand secrets written in her stones, she is a world apart.

Lido is the sight of her profile risng from the sea, in flesh or in dreams. The sensation of the sight of this immortality made flesh. Elegant and as pristine in presentation as the Lido itself, it makes the pulse race in joyful anticipation of all that will be revealed once her shores are reached. All manner of promises reach us from her alleyways and canals on that shoreline resplendent with those who are enamoured, Lido is the place to see and be seen to see, it ignites my fires to return carrying within its folds Venice and my longing.

Sacred Scarab from Zoologist, Perfumer Sultan Pasha, thrilled to spend a few moments with Sultan at Esxence, his new collaboration with Victor Wong of Zoologist is a creative work of genius. From its inspiration to its realisation one can sense within it all the research and passion, it is complex and visits you with a multitude of layers as if time itself is unravelling and you are the spectator on the edges of the vortex. It is divinely, achingly disarmingly beautiful. To stand on the verges of time and be the observer, Sacred Scarab reveals all in time and in no time. A true work of Art from a masterly hand.

Figuier Noir from Houbigant, Perfumer Celine Ellena. Here is a Fig of bright flowing sap, greener than green with shafts of sun shot through like a green silk that gives different hues depending on the light. Figuier Noir is the best dresser you will ever know, a dandy who knows how to turn heads with a reserve that borders on a quiet confidence. This is for the well dressed man and equally the avant garde woman.

Neroli Meditteraneo from Perris Monte Carlo, Perfumer Gian Luca Perris. The newest release and addition to the Italy Collection, all of which throw shards of brilliant luminousity on all the attributes of that fabulous country, its coastlines and its warmed citrus groves. Neroli Mediterraneo personifies the shimmering, waxy, starry constellations of a myriad white flowers nestled in darker green boughs, it captivates and entrances, and time is stilled. Hours can pass eneveloped in this heady perfume, it lightens the moments and gifts joy with every breath.

Rose Ardoise from Atelier Materi, Perfumer. not an unknown to me yet I must still mention it for it has the makings of a new classic, take a rose and dispell all the vintage connotations and sharpen her instincts and dress her in minimalist mode. Instill in her all the knowledge of her beauty and yet accomapny her in streets sharply defined and full of interest and curious personalities, this is a rose never known before, a modern twist which is quite frankly addictive.

Piazza Affari from Milano Fragranze, Perfumer Cecile Matton, the new addition to the Milano Fragranze Collection which draws its inspiration from the famous districts and landmarks of Milan, a homage to the city’s culture and history. Piazza Affari is sharply tailored without a hair out of place, the epitome of Italian flair and style. Quietly confident and suave, it radiates an aura of poise and optimism.

Sleight of Fern from Masque Milano, Perfumer Stephanie Bakouche. a beautiful and mesmersing modern interpretation of a Fougere. It takes all the classic components and reworks them with a style and panache that renders a reinvigoration of the genre. Here is cutting edge greenery merged with meadows and deeply perfumed lavender furrows. I would step out in true 1930’s genderless style and here in Sleight of Hand I find my finishing touches.

L’eau Guillerette from Anatole Lebreton, a gentle whisper of a floral bouquet that had the power to make me weak at the knees and emotional at the memories it evoked. Instantly it propelled me into a garden where I spent many happy hours during my infancy. A carefree and magical place where imagination took flight and I was nurtured by lilac winds and lily of the valley breezes. Anatole has captured a child’s sight and gifted it back to me after a great passage of time, now that is pure sorcery.

**Elementals Fragrance. 2. Libertine Neroli from Francesca Bianchi 3. Ellen Dahlgren 4. Rubini 5. Lorenzo Pazzaglia 6. Menamo from Gabriella Cheiffo**

All of the following perfumes are those which as yet I wish to explore further, some are not released yet, I was given a glimpse in advance, some were gifted to me in random meetings with dear friends, some are still in development and as such are hidden for the moment.

Tong Ren from Elementals Fragrances Perfumer Alexandre Helwani-Robert with beautiful illustrative work by Cristian Mariancluc.

Libertine Neroli from Francesca Bianchi, a new creation, leather imbuded in classic Francesca style, a brilliant combination of chic classicism and a twist of modernity, more later.

Ellen Dahlgren Perfumes - 2 creations shared with me, both have one within the other, powerful and intruiging. A sorcery at work here.

Andrea from Rubini shared a perfume in development with me, needless to say it was beautiful.

Lorenzo Pazzaglia - a collection to be explored over time.

A wonderful meeting with dear Gabriella Cheiffo and she generously shared a sample of her new release Menamo.

Curious Worlds of Perfumed Endeavour - Discoveries of Esxence - Part the Second - June 2022

Terra Sacra - Luminous Redemption. Paradis Provence - Shalini Parfums Maurice Roucel 2019

Curious Worlds of Perfumed Endeavour - Discoveries of Esxence - Part the First June 2022