Slow - aScent Pitti Firenze 2019 One
There are times when it is just perfect to write, time for the best to rise and having percolated for a while, I am ready to share the marvelous, the curious, the tender people, the startling moments and events that made up my time in Florence, attending Pitti Fragranze 2019, September 13th-15th. Now is the time, gratefully sitting here on a subtropical island far from the grip of a northern Winter. These events so eagerly anticipated are, for the Perfume devotee, a high ritual, a place of rare and unique individuals, and the emotions translated into liquidinous form, waiting to enter us, welcome and bidden. I shall write further on the events surrounding Pitti in another article. The city of Firenze always captures and entrances me, I love that city and will never tire of spending time there and my commitment to attend Pitti Fragranze continues.
I often find these Perfume Fairs, slightly too large to encompass, and I naturally shy away from the more overtly commercial veins that throb in these arenas, preferring select brands and company. Pitti however was a pleasant change this year, the many whose presence was absent the only flaw. The colleagues and Perfumer friends who chose not to attend Pitti this year were greatly missed.
There was an atmosphere that was unusually serene and tranquil, this enabled deeper and prolonged connection with the participants and the ability of the Press to attend events and meet with our colleagues, I for one appreciated this pace.
A thoroughly enjoyable few days, imbibed with a “slow scent “ quality where the highlights ran the gamut of friendly reunions, new innovations from respected brands, unrivaled events and new discoveries which I shall write more on in due course. Precious time was the treasure this year, enabled by a smaller fair with less frenetic overtones. As quoted by Olivier Durbano, “ quality over quantity”, less is definitely more. Even the halls echoed an elegant aesthetic, with a minimalistic atmosphere. The concept designed by Diego Soprana lent a modern and classic balance that emanated refinement, perfect to showcase the best in new creativity .
I will just summarize a little on my experiences and what took my nose by storm, in the same vein as slow food and slow wine, I take my time and in a world increasingly infused by new vloggers and bloggers at every turn, I stand my ground and prefer only to write, of those brands who touch me deeply and whom I admire with their authenticity and integrity.. In time this will be understood. For those of you whom read, thank you.
The first overwhelming inhalation of Pitti situated in the Stazione Leopolda, Firenze, is akin to the wrap around cold shoulders of a luxurious cashmere wrap, familiar and utterly delicious to immerse oneself in. even the often denigrated in ordinary life, the queue, becomes a moment filled with rising anticipation and the nervous innocent excitement of what may be waiting to be unwrapped.
Wandering the hallways of course one of the first to visit is dear Olivier Durbano and his latest creation SpeM PetruM, the Stone of Hope, a beautiful, symbol infused concoction as ever illuminated by the persona of Olivier himself, quiet and humble, always true. He and I have always experienced a connection unspoken, here in this new perfume which is a devotional to the Magdalene, all is laid bare and the words he wrote to accompany this gem, this “forgotten known” are acknowledged in glances and perfumed entrancement. Nard, being at the beating heart of this composition, I was metaphorically on my knees in supplication.
Antonio Alessandria’s warm smile and mischievous demeanor welcome as always in an air of friendship and connection. I admire his authenticity and the very human aspects that sensually envelop all his collection, defining moments from his life and the impressions etched. Dies Aurorae, the newest perfume is no exception, in fact along with Fara it speaks to me most deeply and is so enticing in its evolvement on my skin as to be completely addictive. it combines in a delectation the forbidden sweetness of childhood treats with the sanctified atmosphere of deep-seated religious ceremony, a playfulness in the midst of adult solemnity.
I am always excited and intrigued when Francescha Bianchi of Francescha Bianchi Perfumes announces a new creation, they seize me with their intensity and clarity, attributes of Francesca herself. It is a pleasure to be in her company and see her enthusiasm, richly woven into all she produces. Infectious and ebullient all are raw manifestations of our humanity, in its myriad flawed and flawless aspects. Lost In Heaven, brings into a focus the spirit yearning of us all for purity and the profound knowledge of our boundaries within physical existence. it is an intense ethereal fragrance. In comparison The Black Knight deeply entrenched in a historical narrative based on the figure of Giovanni Dalle Bande Nere (John of the Black Bands), an Italian mercenary in the Renaissance, conveys a strength unparalleled in any other fragrance, yet within the smoke filled, compelling savagery which was a constant component of Renaissance warfare there is the simple and exquisite need for tenderness amongst the brutal, for the touch of flesh with flesh rather than at the end of the blade. With great dexterity Francesca touches us with the power and the vulnerability. These are two of her very best Perfumes in my opinion.
Alt Oblique was a brand that I enjoyed to spend time with and explore, immediately finding a place of comfort and ease in our communications, with Mario Lombardo and his partner. A Berlin based brand I will be more than happy to review further, two initial perfumes warranted my attention, Bohemian Woods, rich and redolent with all the notes I gravitate to and at the other extreme, White Light, a beautiful play of white florals that is an illuminate companion on my skin. More to follow on this edgy, modern brand.
Falling into the zone of a relationship that gathers to its breast more than friendship, interlaced with a simple understanding of each other that goes beyond words and daily life, to greet Stefania Squeglia of Mendittorosa is a balm, her Ithaka is one of my most treasured Perfumes. Her creations speak to me in hushed tones that I know and understand. Her eyes flash the same time-imbued quality as my own. At Pitti Fragranze she was highlighting Talento, a fragrance I had first encountered at Esxence in Milan, earlier in the year. It a rose-infused perfume, yet this is unique with a rose signature unlike no other. Captivating it alludes to the the rarest of essences within us, talent and genius, what is so precious within us, that stillpoint of genius that some hone to a perfection and which has the ability to touch us all profoundly at our core. I adore Talento and there is writing percolating within me on its quiet, sublime message.
To culminate this first piece of writing on Pitti Fragranze 2019, I must speak about the pleasure of finally completing a journey begun in 2016. At that time I was spending a few weeks in Firenze and beginning my love affair with that city. I met and developed enduring friendships with the Creative Director from Aquaflor and his wife, Antonio Artese and Samantha Stout and was introduced to Aquaflor and their Perfumer at that time Sileno Cheloni. They had just finished working on a commission for two exclusive perfumes for an exquisite Italian House that specializes in luxury accessories of the highest quality, Mariella Martinato. these two Perfumes were exceptional, one with a White label, one with a Black. It was such an introduction and these fragrances left their indelible mark on me. Fast forward to Pitti Fragranze in September 2019 and I made a point to visit the stand of Mariella Martinato, meeting at last with Mariella, her husband and with their son, Maurizio de Marchi, the current CEO and Designer. What a meeting it was, what beautiful, genuine people, we could have spoken for hours as we discovered such commonality of noble thoughts and ideas, a friendship that I sincerely hope grows. So, at last I was able to scent again with a great satisfaction the two, both wrought from the finest materials and defining luxury with a timeless elegance. Transcending all trends and influences to reflect only that which is pure quality in life and essence. White Gold, slender and elegant, sublime luxurious and refined and Black Silver portraying the same lines of luxury and finesse but with an more sensual undertone. these are superb, alchemical collaborations befitting such a House as Mariella Martinato, I will be adding these to my collection.
More in my next piece of the surprises encountered at Pitti Fragranze 2019 and the fabulous events I attended.
Photographs are copyright, Danu Seith-Fyr 2019. Pitti Fragranze Florence. All titles are left to right.
Firenze Muse, Olivier Durbano, Vessel of the Magdalene Olivier Durbano, Antonio Alessandria.
SpeM PetraM Oliver Durbano, Dies Aurorae Antonio Alessandria, Francesca Bianchi, Halls of Pitti.
Lost In Heaven and The Black Knight Francesca Bianchi, Alt.Oblique Mario Lombardo and partner,
Mendittorosa, Talento Mendittorosa Talismans.
Mariella Martinato and Maurizio de Marchi, White Gold and Black Silver Mariella Martinato, Florence Vue.
All samples received with thanks from the Perfume Houses at Pitti Fragranze 2019
All opinions are my own and copyright 2019.