Bright, Young Things and Eternal Elegance -Pink Me Up + Noir By Night - Atelier des Ors, Jean-Philippe Clermont and Marie Salamagne - 2022
Bright Young Things - Cecil Beaton and Lisa Fonssagrives by Irving Penn
There are times within the bound pages of our collective history when all seems to deepen into chaos at every turn and other times when a spirit of joy and united exuberance for life unfolds. How comforting it is in these present times to be able to voyage in a time when cares were swept aside and freedoms were being expressed. I speak of the ‘Annees Folles’, those years of frolics and imagination unleashed, an era of profound liberation and transformed societal codes. In the “Frivolities” collection from Atelier des Ors, we find two perfumes so beautifully entwined in that time period yet so magnificently modern. Jean-Philippe Clermont and perfumeur Marie Salamagne have created clear aspects of the 1920’s and encapsulated the spirit of eternal elegance and unbound liberty that defined the age. I have been in possession of these two perfumes since late 2022, in Cannes when they were released, it is however right now in this moment that I sense a rightness in my timing of this article. For two reasons, one is circumstantial as mentioned above, these times we are living through, the 2nd is the season, for despite our follies, the seasons come and go without hinderance thus far. Here in the colder months, almost at the turning tide of winters grasp and with the celebratory season upon us. The season that reminds us of our human capacity for joy, for laughter and kindness and also that the light always prevails and returns.
Both ‘Pink Me Up’ and ‘Noir By Night’ are composed with high quality components and have utilised a headspace capture technology from Firmenich called NaturePrint, a technology I am a little familiar with. It was used to capture the scent of a glass of Champagne for Pink Me Up and of Caviar for Noir By Night. Fascinating to say the least and the impression it gifts to the construction of each perfume is unique.
These are daring, bold and sumputous compositions, redefining luxury, timeless connatations in a contemporary vein.
Paula Gellibrand Marquise de Casa Maury by Cecil Beaton 2. Pink Me Up - Atelier des Ors 3. and 4. Unsplash.
Pink Me Up, named after the famous champagne cocktail, such an exuberance in a bottle, here is the frisson of nervous anticipation that sits on the surface of a coupe of champagne, all jittery and ebullient invitation, hover your nostrils just above the glass and feel the sensation emitted from those perfectly refined streams that issue upwards. It is the invitation to life, to enjoy, play and partake in marvellous company. Here is a perfume of celebration, joyous and effervesscent, it liberates me from weightier concerns and is my first soiree of the season. There is within it that same excitation that has existed in me since a very young age as we are beckoned across the threshold of the holiday season, it is akin to a simmering electricity as we acknowledge the coming gaiety, that perfect tension as we prepare for the evening, bedecking ourselves in our finery, or dressed as another, the mystique of fancy dress, our most luxurious selves. Pink Me Up, a sensation of festivities and new beginings. Uplifting and energetic it lifts off the skin in a vibrant splash of Bergamot and Fleur d’oranger, the enticement to the evenings pleasures, that first entrance, the greetings of friends, the glances of unknown eyes admiring and the doors to the evenings entertainments are flung open. Jettisoned onto the dancefloor, swirled and swayed in a unison of shared pleasures.
Baba Beaton as Heloise - Cecil Beaton 2. Joesphine Baker 3. Zeigfeld Follies 4. Bright Young Things by Cecil Beaton 5.Constance McCardle 6. Bright Young Things - Jamie Coreth
Sip that first draft of Champagne and always it entices the nose before the palate, irriestible, a whiff of liberty and the skirts of morality lifted just a fraction. Combined with a centifolia rose of seductive proportions and the evening is in full swing. Costumed extravagance and masked with fantasy, we are freed in flights of imagination. Glittering costumes feted with elegant suitors, bejewelled men and women bought together in a heady, verging on the edges of propriety atmosphere, there is the sense of laughter, at ease, conversation without convention and the dancing until the body has lost itself in the sorcery of music until the mornings wintry light seeps into the remanants of night…….. All those Bright Young Things doing what all Bright Young Things should do, indulging in youthful exuberance applicable at any age and in any era.
Josephine Baker 2. Norman Hartnell 3. Leonardo di Caprio in The Great Gatsby 2013 4. Pink Me Up - Atelier des Ors 5. Bright Young Things - Cecil Beaton 6. John de Mederios.
Notes de tête : Essence de Bergamote, Pétales de Fleur d’Oranger
Notes de cœur : Champagne NaturePrint, Rose Centifolia, Mûre
Notes de fond : Essence de Patchouli, Iris, Musc
Lisa Fonssgrives by Irving Penn 2. David Carter- London by Marc Rogoff 3. Ekaterina Ignatova 4.Bruno Piedade by David de Olade.
One could not have imagined prior to the release of ‘Noir By Night’ by Atelier des Ors, seeing on the list of components, Caviar. Perhaps our thoughts turn at first to saline and sea aspects, when in fact nothing could be further from the truth. Noir By Night is an intruiging composition, the caviar, which once again is a NaturePrint component, the capture was done with slightly warmed caviar to bring out certain aspects, it deepens and softens the perfume, giving notes that are creamy and waxy on the skin. It is a fascinating and unique exploration. Unadulterated style incarnate.
A soiree of elegant proportions awaits us, the atmosphere is gilded in subtle discretion, groomed in effortless style, where a cut of fabric reveals just enough of the white shirt beneath or the perfect grace of skin. Noir By Night is a scent of ineffable style, that gracious state that inhabits certain people as part of their very fabric.
Woman in a Veil - Irving Penn 2. Cecil Beaton - Cambridge 3. Noir By Night - Atelier des Ors 4. Audrey Hepburn 5.Lisa Fonssagrive by Irving Penn 6. Aliona Kuznetsova
Woods and incense accentuate my confidence, warm and sensual, I am seamless and full of graceful movement, these are present from the very outset, sitting on my person like a wrap of luxurious fabric draped upon me, a layer of sophistication and refinement. Residing on feminine flesh like the scented remnants of a lover, masculine yet immersed in sensuality. Richly wrought with Dreamwood combined in harmonious perfection with a sandalwood of opulent proportions accentuates the sensation of luxury.
This is effortless luxury, no pretentions, again the mode of the 1920’s is exhibited here within the perfume, a refinement of luxury, a loosening of societal bonds and gender perceptions, elegant women transitioned to previously masculine attire, men found new found freedoms in the dandyesque embellishments. Boundaries were traversed. Noir By Night alludes to all these newly discovered freedoms, under the elegant restraints simmers all manner of seductive promises, sexual liberations lie barely concealed beneath the black tie and little black dress. An impropriety scarcely veiled within its immaculate garments and conduct.
Fascinating and alluring, Noir By Night encapsulates high society revels and modern mores in an inhalation, an Immaculate presentation casting libertine glances. I am reminded within its incense coils of lost icons and their living legacies which breathe in us, let us not so descend our standards of attire or behaviour but be the very best we can in all ways. Unchained frivolity perhaps needed more than ever and this collection is a timely reminder to embrace the seasons invitations, well-groomed and ready for anything.
Coco Chanel 2. Lisa Fonssagrives by Irving Penn 3. Noir By Night - Atelier des Ors 4. Bruno Piedade - GQ Magazine 5. David Carter - London 6. Bruno Piedade 7. Lee Cherry via Tumblr
Top Notes: Coriander, Incense
Heart Notes: Caviar NaturePrint, Dreamwood, Mate Absolute
Base Notes: Guaiac Wood, Sandalwood, Cashmeran
My grateful thanks to Jean-Philippe Clermont and all at Atelier des Ors for bottles of the Frivolities Collection, my words and intepretation are my own.
DsF 23
Frivolities Collection - Pink Me Up and Noir By Night can be found here -
Collection Frivolité - Atelier Des Ors
Atelier des Ors Complete Collection here -
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