Blanched Liberty & Iluminated Dust - Oh Denim Extreme & Ud Ikat Uermi Olfactive Wardrobe - 2020/21

The Guardian, Ahmed Carter

I have been aware of Uermi Guardaroba Olfattivo, an iconic Italian house for a number of years, Aurora Carrera is all the most dynamic women I have ever met rolled into one and Palmiro Peaquin, a quiet revolution, gentle and complete, co-founders, I am honoured to call them friends. Always their creations astonish me and I have a few firm favourites amongst the collection such as the sublime and beautiful WeTweed, always my bottles empty too fast, but……… nothing could have prepared me for two of their latest releases. Oh Denim Extreme by perfumer Sylvie Fischer, threw all of my preconceived notions of Tuberose out of the window and Ud Ikat by perfumer Pierre Constantin Gueros takes Oud to a rare and lofty height of pure artisanship and elegance.

Why am I so captured by Oh Denim Extreme, it provokes a spark of deep joy within me that gives me the desire to run barefoot in the long, willowy grasses of summer heated meadows, heated earth beneath my skin and a celiing of cloudless blue overhead. Joyous and exuberent, Oh Denim is a floral escapade, containing all the gestures and voices of unleashed liberty, how appropriate for these times that its song conjures for me the breath of liberated sweet airs laced with uncomplicated times. The words rising from my wrist speak of a time when we found freedoms, now a memory, racing in the winds of change as if nothing could touch us, knowing for certain we were Immortal, revelling in an innocence of barefoot reveries, flowers strewn through hair that is teased into tendrils by warm summer winds.

It calls like a wildness simmering under bright sun’s rays, flesh touched with light kisses from a million grasses, knee high, akin to a feathers glance, the first notes, bright, clear and uncluttered, urge the shouts of glee and dances without inhibition. Expansion, vertiginous and immense beckons with a sumptous tuberose and jasmine, often so overpowering, yet here with a finely wrought delicacy, light and luminous so as to exagerate the unhindered delight in pure simplicity.

With its embracing notes that taper deftly like the sun dipping beyond the horizon, yet leaving its warmth infused into all, I can watch the setting rays sunk deeply into meadows folds, eyes to the deepening vast light of the nights cloak, nestled on warmed earth with scents of heated nature. Oh Denim makes me want to run, to sing, to dance, to love, to be ecstatically human and untouchable, it is an exquisitely undefinable and unlimited joy. It is an elixir reminding us of untainted delight and beauty.

bergamot and mandarin, cinnamon and black pepper,absolutes of tuberose and jasmine, neroli and ylang-ylang, patchouli, vetiver, olibanum and cedar wood.

Kirsty Mitchell, Uermi, Cristian Martin Weiss

Ud Ikat, an object of high art with a tradtion that is passed on from age to age. How I am seduced within its shifting sands of gold, layered through with infinite light. Gold plays a large part in the interpretation of this exceptional perfume by perfumer Pierre Constantin Gueros. I have girded my flesh with something beyond precious and in this I do not mean a material preciousness but a rarity previously unattainable, oftentimes untouchable by mortals.

Ud Ikat opens the portal to a place of rare sancitity, a dissipation of all worldly concerns evaporates from my skin, its powerful influence extending beyond the confines of time. As with the textile technique, something is woven here that has passed from life to life, hand to hand, touch upon touch, a quality of genius breathed into intricate materiality by a gifted hand. All that is required is to cease our perpetual motion and scent the perfumed voices on the breezes of the God’s.

Ahmed Carter, Danu Seith-Fyr, Emad Kolahi, Danu Seith-Fyr, Ronit Bigal, Uermi.

Decipherment is effortless, by second nature the evolution of Ud Ikat on my skin feels as if a hidden, cached part of myself emerged, a long lost recognition felt in its undulating waves, the oud adjmal is like a key to decipher a text of symbols that have resided under the surface of my fleshy limits until now. A silken texture with no intrusive edges it glides in swathes of glorious company, creamy sandalwood and cedarwood, soft, buttery attendants.

A revelation in the ripples, softly whispered like the shift of desert sands, barely audible chants of winds tender against the earth. I am embraced by the knowing in this previously unknown.

A second skin written like a text in flesh, the symbols etched and in their revealing, streaming like rays of sunlight through a cloud riven sky, a brief glimpse of our immortal essence. Ud Ikat is a Seer woven of forgotten truths.

Natural Essential Oils at 29.8%, Cedarwood, Elemi, Patchouli, Vetiver Madagascar, Bergamot, Gurjun Balsam, Amyris, Cypriol, Lemon, Red Berry, Mandarin Madagascar, Cinnamon Bark Madagascar, Oud Ajmal, Sandalwood, Vanilla Bourbon Madagascar, Turkish Rose, Vetiver Coeur Madagascar.